Alpha lipoic acid is compound
found in all living cells that helps body turn glucose into energy.
Its use in health is well
documented and it’s widely available to buy as a dietary supplement. Some
nutritionists market it as a weight loss supplement, but clinical trials done
suggest that ALA is essential for cell function and as such it’s good for wound
healing, reducing inflammation, improving and preventing age related cognitive
dysfunction.
It’s also found in almost
all foods, but still its presence in foods is very low to gain any benefit
from eating ALA rich foods so most supplements available to buy are chemically
synthesised.
In skincare ALA is treated
as one of the antioxidants. We have all heard about antioxidants and free
radicals, but do we actually know what that means?
What are antioxidants then?
I better explain before going back to ALA.
Antioxidants are molecules
that inhibit oxidation of other molecules.
Oxidation is an interaction
between oxygen molecules and whatever substances oxygen comes in contact with
(loss of at least one electron in contact with a substance).
As much as we need oxygen to
exist, the by-product of oxygen intake is production of reactive oxygen species
(ROS). Therefore all organisms posses antioxidant metabolites and enzymes that
prevent the cell damage.
For example, an apple has
skin that protects its inner flesh from oxidation, as soon as that skin is
broken oxidation happens. In apple’s case, the flesh goes brown.
Some of those by-products of
reactive oxygen species are free radicals, the term almost exclusively used in
ageing.
Free radicals are unstable
electrons that can cause a chain reaction of decay in environment around them.
Electrons normally travel in pairs as a molecule, so one single electron is
unstable and seeks a molecule from which to steal another electron to be paired
with. Homewreckers I say. Hence the damage it can cause as the electron left
over from the molecule itself behaves as a single homewrecking free radical.
Hope you get the idea!
To help us fight oxidative
stress we have antioxidants and ALA is one of them.
As an antioxidant that
has many health benefits, ALA should also be useful for skin and fight on
wrinkles. Well I think so. I love it and I use it in my creams.
The problem is that not many
clinical studies were made to prove this. Of course, more pressing experiments
were made with ALA in relations to general health, so bothering with vanity did
not figure. I suppose they forgot how much money the beauty industry makes.
Actually, one of the
scientists did the clinical testing of ALA in skincare and that was Nicolas
Perricone, a dermatologist. There would be nothing wrong with it had he not made
his own anti-ageing skincare brand Perricone MD. And he wrote a book about it,
“The Wrinkle Cure”.
So either he believed in ALA
and decided to build a range of products with the ingredient or he found a
unique selling point from which to launch his skincare line. The jury is still out.
Here is what Nicolas
Perricone says of ALA:
“A topical application of Alpha Lipoic Acid can
help to improve the overall appearance in your skin. When used in the proper
concentrations, Alpha Lipoic Acid has been found to help patients with acne
scars, rosacea, and large pores. Applying ALA
in combination with a Vitamin C Ester topical treatment has shown
amazing results in actual patients, helping their skin become more porcelain
like in a matter of time. Be sure you have a low carb intake and are drinking
plenty of water to help round out the topical treatments you are using”.
I tend to agree up to the
“eat the low carb food” point.
Whatever it is, has
Perricone not had done his research into ALA and skincare, I would not be using
it in my creams.
For me it works and I have used it extensively in my home made concoctions. It tingles slightly when used first, but you find that you get used to it quickly. Also it's relatively low irritant as not many people are allergic to it.
So if you want to try it you can either get a
product from Perricone MD line or buy some ALA powder and use it in a cream. It's inexpensive to buy as an ingredient and you can adjust the strength yourself. Plus you'll be doing your own clinical trials.
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