At-Home Facials Revisited: A Professional's Perspective on Modern Tools and Techniques

 

Photo: Kim Lang

The landscape of at-home skincare has transformed dramatically over the past decade. What was once limited to basic cleansing and masking has evolved into a sophisticated array of profes
sional grade devices and treatments. As someone with 25 years of experience in the beauty industry, I've witnessed this evolution first-hand and tested numerous innovations along the way.

While these advancements have made professional-level treatments more accessible, they've also created a maze of options that can be overwhelming - and potentially risky if not used correctly. This updated guide reflects both my professional expertise and personal experience with various tools and techniques, focusing on what actually works and, more importantly, how to use these tools safely and effectively.

Before we dive into specific treatments, remember that the goal of any facial treatment is to enhance your skin's natural functions, not to damage or overwhelm it. Success lies not in how many devices you use, but in understanding how to use them properly and creating a consistent, mindful routine.

 

After 25 years in the industry and testing countless devices, I've narrowed down the most effective at-home treatments to three key approaches that consistently deliver results.

 

FACIAL MASSAGE

• Most accessible and cost-effective
• Immediate visible results 
• Zero recovery time 
• Can be done daily 
• Supports natural processes  
  

 

How it works:

Facial massage immediately improves skin tone and condition by supporting your body's natural systems. Blood circulation delivers nutrients to skin cells, while the lymphatic system removes waste products.

Best Practice:
I prefer using a small Melt ball (designed for fascia therapy) to target lymph nodes around the jaw, neck, and temples, with special attention to the eye area where sinus congestion and fluid retention often occur. The key is gentle movement, always working downward toward lymph nodes and extending from face to neck toward the armpits for proper drainage. Also try Jade roller and Gua Sha massage set

RED LIGHT THERAPY

• Gentle yet effective 
• Science-backed results 
• Consistent long-term benefits 
• Can be combined with other treatments 

 

How It Works:

Operating at specific wavelengths (typically 630-670nm for red light and 830-850nm for near-infrared), these devices penetrate different depths of skin tissue to stimulate cellular repair and collagen production.

Benefits:

•  Improved skin tone and texture
•  Enhanced healing and repair
•  Reduced inflammation
•  Subtle but progressive collagen stimulation

Best Practice:

 Consistency is key - aim for 10-20 minute sessions with proper eye protection. Choose a comfortable, flexible mask over rigid options - if it's uncomfortable, you won't use it regularly. The most expensive option isn't necessarily the best; focus on appropriate wavelengths for your needs.

A Critical Note on Mask Design:

From personal experience, rigid LED masks can present significant comfort issues. The standard one-size-fits-all approach often fails, particularly around the nose and lip area where space can be restrictively small. This discomfort isn't just annoying - it can make 10-20 minute treatments feel unbearable and ultimately leads to the device being abandoned. When choosing a mask, look for:
• Flexible material that adapts to your facial contours
• Adequate space around nose and mouth for comfortable breathing
• Lightweight design for extended wear
• Adjustable straps or hands-free wear options
• Sufficient space between the mask and your features

Remember: The most effective device is the one you'll actually use consistently. An expensive rigid mask that sits in your drawer due to discomfort is ultimately a waste of money

Recommended: Lovsheme LED mask comes with eye protection and has a flexible design
 

 

MICRONEEDLING

• Significant results when done properly 
• Best for periodic intensive treatment 
• Requires strict hygiene protocols 
• Most intensive of the three 

 

How It Works:

This treatment creates controlled micro-injuries in the upper epidermis, enhancing product penetration and triggering natural repair responses. The dual effect helps active ingredients penetrate more effectively while stimulating skin renewal.

Important Considerations:

• Thorough cleaning and disinfection are non-negotiable
• Choose alcohol-free serums with proven actives like copper peptides and niacinamide
• Skip this treatment if strict hygiene feels overwhelming  
• Avoid hyaluronic acid serums containing alcohol or astringents

Use a good sanitiser Isopropyl Alcohol Medical Grade

Recommended products  LaRoche Posay Toleriane Hydrating Serum The Ordinary Buffet Derma roller 

 

 

EMS/RF Devices

 

Radiofrequency (RF) and Electrical Muscle Stimulation (EMS) devices have become increasingly popular for at-home use, but they require careful consideration. These devices work by delivering either thermal energy (RF) or electrical impulses (EMS) to the skin and underlying tissues.

Important Consideration: While RF devices can effectively tighten and tone the skin, they can also reduce facial fat over time. This might be desirable for some, but if you're already concerned about facial volume loss or have a naturally slim face, you should be cautious with RF treatments, particularly around the mid-face area.

What to know before using these devices:

• Start with the lowest setting and gradually increase
• Avoid using over the bony areas of the face or where the skin is thin
• Keep the device moving constantly to prevent overheating  
• Pay attention on how the skin responds
• Consider your facial structure and volume before committing to regular RF treatments
• Make sure you use a hyaluronic gel such as The Ordinary Hyaluronic Serum 

 Results can include 

• Temporary skin tightening
• Improved product absorption
• Enhanced circulation
• Subtle contouring effects (which, again, may include some fat reduction)

 Recommended:

  Foreo Bear Mini Targeted Microcurrent Face Lift Device

 

Why These Three?
These treatments consistently deliver results while being relatively safe when done properly. While many other devices exist (oxygen treatments, etc.), these three offer the best balance of results, safety, and practicality for home use.

While the beauty industry continues to launch new innovations, these three tried-and-tested treatments remain my go-to recommendations for effective at-home facial care. Remember, consistency with gentle treatments often yields better results than aggressive, sporadic approaches. Start with one method that appeals to you most, perfect your technique, and gradually incorporate others as desired. The key to success lies not in accumulating devices, but in understanding and regularly practicing treatments that work for your skin's needs.

 

 

Worst Makeup Trends I’m Done With: Highlighter on the Nose

image: Andrew Kimber

 

 

I’ve spent 25 years in makeup, working with pros at Chanel and L’Oreal, and five years out hasn’t dulled my disdain for stupid trends. TikTok and Instagram girls, what’s with the highlighter on the nose tip? This nonsense should’ve died years ago, but it’s still here, and it looks bloody awful. Let me break it down.

 

Contour and highlight aren’t random. Contour is an implied shadow—matte, cool-toned, greyish-brown, not bronzer. Stand by a window, check your mirror: that’s the shadow we recreate. It pulls back areas—cheekbones, chin, forehead, nose. I’ve faked a six-pack for shoots, but that’s another story. 

 

Cheek contour doesn’t stop mid-cheek—that’s blush territory, don’t mess it up. Done right, it slims and defines. I’d use something pro-grade like Make Up For Ever Ultra HD Stick Foundation matte, blends like a dream.

 

Highlight brings things forward. Top of cheekbones, bridge of the nose—just the bony bit, not the ball—cupid’s bow, brow bone. That’s it. Noses are already forward; they don’t need more attention. Slapping highlighter on the tip doesn’t look cute—it looks like you’ve been sweating buckets. I worked with professional models; they’d never pull this crap. Backstage, we kept glow subtle, enhancing features, not turning them into a disco ball. A pro pick like Dior Forever Couture Luminizer Intense Highlighting Powder give a soft radiance, not a greasy shine.

This trend needs to die, never to be seen again. Makeup should enhance, not make you look ridiculous.

 

 

What’s the worst makeup look you’ve tried—drop it in the comments.

Eyebrow Looks I’ve Outlasted: From Thin to Bushy and Back

 

Georgina at Hermes backstage, makeup and photo by me

 

 

 

 

Seeing that I have walked away from my makeup career almost five years ago, I can now reflect on some trends over the twenty-five years in the industry.

 

Eyebrows “frame the face” and set the tone of the whole look. Coming from the overplucked 90s eyebrows that instantly aged every wearer – to crazy caterpillar type of brows of the late 2010s and squared off tattooed brows, you can say I’ve seen and dealt with all of the types.

What all of these trends had in common were that none of them were natural and “timeless”.

 

I’ll start with overplucked eyebrows. I’ve heard many stories that they never grow back after too much plucking – I call bullshit. If you overpluck them for 20 years then yes, you may have weakened the hair follicle root, but seeing how much money we spend on waxing and epilation, the stuff grows. From places you thought no hair should grow. Your natural eyebrow shape might not have been the best, but there are tricks to deal with those, I’ll get to some products suggestions later. But I do find that people get “stuck” on the shape they think it works best and they’re unwilling to budge.

 

Fat eyebrows – you know the look. Cara Delavigne kind of started the trend and eventually it got out of control. I definitely prefer more natural eyebrows, but they should be still groomed. But never pluck them from the top, the eyebrows should be shaped so they lift your eye – eyebrows can do that, you don’t have to do the “eyebrow lift” so you look like everyone on Instagram.

 

Tattooed eyebrows –I almost considered this at one point, I am so glad I never did them.

Now I’ll tell you why I don’t recommend them.

Tattooed eyebrows are considered semi-permanent makeup with results highly dependent on the skill of the artist and the ability of the said artist to correctly mix the right pigments for your skin tone and give you the shape that suits your face. As the pigment deposits are not as deep as the traditional tattoo, such pigment will fade and would need topping up. And when those pigments fade, they eyebrows will be reddish or greenish (I have seen plenty on clients).

Another point is the shape – literally nobody has a squared off natural eyebrow – that shape is achieved when you pluck the monobrow and fill it in with makeup it then looks squared off, but I repeat, nobody has natural eyebrows like that so I am unsure why the trend for tattoos for that shape.

Most of the time it’s too dark, makes women too severe looking, especially once you hit 40s.

 

What I do recommend is grooming eyebrows into the right shape. For that I like a toothbrush type eyebrow brush – Bamboo toothbrush with boar bristles  is the type I like to use. You brush the eyebrows upwards at the eyebrow bone – it lifts the eye corners and then you fill in the bits and bobs and form the shape.

I love Kevyn Aucoin eyebrow pencils – they’re bit on the pricy side but the colours are the best and they’re great at filing in the gaps in natural eyebrows. For more budget options Maybelline Express Brow Ultra Slim Defining Natural Fuller Looking Brows Eyebrow Pencil is decent. Eyebrow pencils are mix of wax and pigments, so mass market brands generally use less expensive and more limited pigment selections, so bear that in mind.

If you need to visually “fatten” the eyebrows, then using a highly pigmented eyeshadow with a smaller boar brush would be your best option. Revolution does a decent eyeshadow palette with colours that can be used for eyebrows.

 

To deposit colour on eyebrows use a natural boar hair angled brush such as Bobbi Brown 

 

I dislike synthetic brushes for eyebrows, the bristle must be firm enough in order to pick up more pigment and synthetics just don’t behave the same.

 

And as a last thing, you can set the eyebrows in shape if you spray some L’Oreal Elnett on the boar brush and brush the eyebrows into shape. Elnett doesn’t flake and has a firm hold so your eyebrows will be fixed until you wash your face.

 

What’s the worst eyebrow look you’ve tried? 

 

 

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