The Truth About Dermal Fillers: What Nobody Tells You About Long-Term Effects

Image: A Young/P Matos

 

The Reality Behind Filler Longevity

Let's talk about something that's been on my mind lately - the real story behind dermal fillers. After years of working with clients and models, I've noticed patterns that rarely make it into the glossy marketing materials or quick consultation chats.

We all know the basics - you get fillers, they last about 6-18 months, then they're supposedly gone. But that's not quite the whole story. What I've seen, and what research is starting to confirm, is that these products stick around much longer than we think.

Think of hyaluronic acid fillers as your skin's persistent house guest - the one that says they're staying for a weekend but somehow never quite leaves. Even after the obvious volume boost fades, these fillers continue working under your skin, attracting moisture and subtly changing how your face ages.

The Cumulative Effect

What's fascinating is how the effects build up over time. Most people don't realise that each treatment adds to what's already there. It's not like your face hits reset between appointments. Instead, you're gradually creating layers of effect, changing your facial architecture in ways that become part of your new normal.

The moisture-attracting properties of hyaluronic acid are particularly interesting. Even tiny amounts left in your tissues continue to draw water, affecting your skin's hydration levels long after you've forgotten about that last treatment.

Not All Fillers Are Created Equal

Think of it like makeup: you wouldn't use the same product for contouring as you would for highlighting. The newest structural fillers are game-changers, especially for areas like the jawline and temples. These aren't your standard soft fillers - they're more like architectural support for your face. They're highly cross-linked, which is fancy talk for saying they're firmer and can actually create structure, not just volume.

Different areas need different approaches. The under-eye area needs super soft, flexible fillers that integrate beautifully with the delicate tissue. Lips might need multiple types - something firmer for border definition, and a softer, more fluid filler for natural-looking volume. Cheeks need something in the middle range - firm enough to lift and support, but soft enough to look natural when you smile.
 

Treatment Areas: What You Need to Know

Let's break down what actually works where. Under-eye treatments are probably the most delicate and technically challenging. One wrong move here, and you're looking at visible lumps or that dreaded blue tinge under the skin that screams "I've had fillers." This area needs the softest, most flexible fillers and an extremely skilled hand.

Lip fillers aren't just about size, despite what Instagram might have you believe. The best treatments actually restore your natural lip shape and can fix asymmetry. This is where that "different fillers for different areas" approach really matters - firmer products for definition, softer ones for volume. Those one-size-fits-all deals? That's how you end up with duck lips.

Cheek fillers are probably the most misunderstood. When done well, they shouldn't make you look like you've got apple-shaped bumps under your eyes. Instead, they restore your natural cheek structure and can actually improve the whole face by lifting the mid-face area. This is where those structural fillers really shine.

Then there's jawline and chin enhancement - the unsung heroes of facial balance. A well-defined jawline can transform your whole face, especially when combined with small amounts in the pre-jowl area to prevent that saggy look we get with age.

The New Wave of Treatments

Profhilo and similar bio-remodelling treatments are different beasts entirely. They're not about adding volume - they spread under the skin to improve hydration and skin quality. Think of them as injectable moisturisers that trigger collagen production. Perfect for crepey skin on the neck or face.

The newest trend is using micro-droplets of filler across the face - those 'skin boosters' you might have heard about. This isn't about changing your features; it's about creating that dewy, hydrated look that no cream can achieve.

Finding Your Practitioner: The Make-or-Break Factor

First, forget about bargain hunting. I know those social media offers are tempting, but think about it - do you really want someone who's competing on price when it comes to injecting your face? The best practitioners are usually booked months in advance and charge accordingly. Their expertise is worth every penny.

Red flags? Watch out for anyone pushing multiple syringes in your first visit, clinics that look more like beauty bars than medical facilities, or practitioners who won't discuss potential risks. A good injector will always have hyaluronidase on hand (that's the dissolution solution) and will thoroughly explain possible complications.

A proper consultation should feel like a facial analysis session, not a sales pitch. They should explain which products they're using and why. And here's something crucial - they should sometimes say no. If someone's promising to make you look like a celebrity's photo you've brought in, run.

The Maintenance Reality Check

Think of fillers as an ongoing relationship with your face, not a one-time deal. Most people start with touch-ups every 6-12 months, but here's what really happens: as you build up those subtle layers over time, you might actually need less product and can go longer between treatments.

Hydration becomes super important - both inside and out. When you have fillers, your skincare game needs to step up. Take photos - not the filtered kind, but honest, same-lighting shots every few months. It's amazing how we forget what we looked like before.

Sometimes maintenance isn't just about adding more - it might mean dissolving and starting fresh in certain areas. This isn't a failure; it's smart management of your long-term results.

Knowing When to Stop: The Art of Enough

This is where things often go wrong. That invisible line between 'enhanced' and 'obvious' is tricky, and it usually gets crossed gradually. Watch for warning signs: when friends start asking if you've "had work done" instead of saying you look well-rested, when your features start losing their natural movement, when your face starts looking different, not just refreshed.

The mirror can become deceiving. There's a phenomenon where people get used to seeing themselves with more and more volume, and their perception of 'normal' shifts. It's like getting used to too much salt in your food - eventually, you can't taste normal amounts anymore.

Remember, the goal isn't to look 'done' - it's to look like yourself, just refreshed. When you start losing that connection to your natural features, that's your cue to step back and reassess. The best results I've seen are always on people who understood this principle. They maintained their natural features while subtly enhancing them, rather than trying to create entirely new ones.

It's about working with your face, not against it. Sometimes, the bravest thing you can do is stop and let some of your filler dissolve naturally. And often, people find they needed much less than they thought all along.

Understanding Lipids in Skincare: Beyond Just Oils

 

 

Photo: Benjamin Kaufmann

Having formulated my own skincare products for years, I've learned that lipids are often misunderstood. Many people, especially those with oily or combination skin, shy away from lipid-rich products, fearing greasy skin or breakouts. However, lipids are far more than just oils - they're essential components of healthy skin function, and understanding them can transform your approach to skincare.

The Benefits of Lipids

Our skin naturally produces lipids, which form a crucial part of its protective barrier. Think of them as the mortar between the bricks (skin cells) of your skin's structure. Without adequate lipids, this barrier becomes compromised, leading to moisture loss, sensitivity, and various skin issues. Even oily skin can be lipid-deficient, which might surprise many people dealing with excess sebum production.

Common Misconceptions

"Adding lipids will make my skin greasy"
This is perhaps the biggest myth in skincare. In fact, when your skin lacks proper lipids, it might overproduce oil to compensate, leading to that very greasiness you're trying to avoid. Using the right lipids can actually help balance oil production.

"All oils are the same"
Not all lipids are created equal. Some work harmoniously with your skin's natural processes, while others might sit on the surface or potentially cause breakouts. Understanding different types of lipids helps you choose products that support rather than sabotage your skin health.
 

The Role of Lipids in Skin Health

Lipids do far more than just moisturise. They play a vital role in maintaining skin health by creating a protective barrier against environmental stressors, preventing water loss, and supporting cell communication. When our skin's lipid barrier is functioning properly, it helps maintain optimal hydration levels, protects against irritants, and supports the skin's natural repair processes.

As we age, our natural lipid production decreases. Environmental factors like harsh cleansers, pollution, and UV exposure can further deplete our skin's lipid content. This is why incorporating the right lipids into our skincare becomes increasingly important.

Understanding Different Types of Lipids

Not all oils and lipids work the same way on skin. When choosing oils for skincare, understanding their molecular structure and comedogenic rating (how likely an oil is to clog pores) becomes crucial. Some oils, despite being natural and nutrient-rich, might cause problems for certain skin types while others consistently perform well across different skin conditions.

The most skin-compatible oils often share characteristics with our natural sebum or have molecular structures that work harmoniously with our skin. These oils are typically rich in linoleic acid rather than oleic acid, making them less likely to cause congestion or breakouts.

Let's look at some of the most effective non-comedogenic options:

Squalane is one of the safest choices, derived from olive oil or sugarcane. This stable, lightweight oil mimics our skin's natural oils so closely that even reactive skin usually tolerates it well.

Jojoba oil, despite its name, is actually a wax ester that closely resembles human sebum. This similarity means it's particularly good at regulating oil production without causing congestion.

Hemp Seed Oil has a comedogenic rating of zero and actually can help balance oily skin. Its light texture and omega-rich composition make it ideal for acne-prone skin that still needs nourishment.

Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (fractionated coconut oil) is much lighter and more stable than regular coconut oil. The processing removes the components most likely to cause breakouts, leaving a light, non-comedogenic oil.

Argan Oil, while not the lightest, is generally well-tolerated by most skin types. It's rich in vitamin E and fatty acids but doesn't tend to cause congestion.

Meadowfoam Seed Oil is exceptionally stable and similar to human sebum. It helps balance oil production without clogging pores and has excellent moisturising properties.

Kukui Nut Oil, traditionally used in Hawaiian skincare, is very light and absorbs quickly. It's rich in linoleic and linolenic acids, making it good for barrier repair without causing congestion.

Safflower Oil (high linoleic version) is particularly good for acne-prone skin. The high linoleic acid content can help balance sebum production and reduce clogged pores.

Grapeseed Oil is another lightweight option with astringent properties. It's rich in linoleic acid and antioxidants, making it suitable for oily and combination skin types.

Sunflower Seed Oil (high linoleic) can actually help reduce blackheads due to its high linoleic acid content. It's light, non-greasy, and supports barrier function.

Natural Skin Lipids: Understanding the Building Blocks

Our skin's lipid barrier is made up of three key components: ceramides (about 50%), cholesterol (25%), and fatty acids (25%). This specific ratio is crucial for healthy skin function. When these lipids are in balance, they create a strong, flexible barrier that keeps moisture in and irritants out.

Ceramides:
Think of ceramides as the skin's natural waterproofing system. These lipid molecules help bind skin cells together, creating a protective layer that prevents water loss. When ceramide levels drop, skin becomes more susceptible to dryness, irritation, and environmental damage.

Cholesterol:
Often misunderstood, cholesterol is actually essential for skin health. It helps maintain skin flexibility and aids in barrier repair. Without adequate cholesterol, skin can become rigid and prone to damage.

Fatty Acids:
These molecules are crucial for maintaining skin's integrity and inflammatory response. Essential fatty acids (like linoleic acid) can't be produced by our bodies but are vital for healthy skin function.

Traditional vs Modern Lipid Sources

Tallow has gained recent attention in skincare, and for good reason. Its fatty acid profile closely matches human skin lipids, containing vitamins A, D, E, and K. However, quality matters - grass-fed, properly rendered tallow provides the most benefits. While not suitable for everyone (particularly vegans or those prone to breakouts), it's an interesting option for supporting skin barrier function.

Understanding and Restoring Your Lipid Barrier

When your skin's lipid barrier is compromised, it's like having gaps in your skin's protective wall. This can happen due to over-exfoliation, harsh products, environmental stress, or ageing. A compromised barrier doesn't just mean dry skin - it can trigger a cascade of skin issues.

Recognising a compromised barrier is crucial for proper skin health. Your skin might feel tight and uncomfortable even after moisturising, and products that never bothered you before might suddenly cause stinging or burning sensations. You might notice increased redness and irritation, while your skin looks dull and feels rough to the touch. A telling sign is when products seem to evaporate quickly rather than properly absorb. Sometimes, you might experience seemingly contradictory symptoms - breakouts alongside dry patches, or dehydration despite surface oiliness.

Restoring Balance

The key to barrier repair is patience and simplicity. The first step is to pause all active ingredients like acids and retinoids. Switch to gentle, non-foaming cleansers, and always apply products to damp skin. Focus on ingredients that support barrier function rather than trying to treat other skin concerns during this healing period.

Recovery typically takes between two to four weeks, depending on the severity of the damage. During this time, keep cleansing gentle - sometimes just water in the morning is enough. Support your skin's natural lipid production with appropriate products, and protect it from further damage. Consistency is crucial during this recovery period - maintaining a simple, gentle routine will yield better results than constantly switching products in search of a quick fix.

Choosing the Right Lipid Products

When selecting products to support your skin's lipid barrier, look for formulations that combine different types of beneficial lipids. The best products often contain a mix of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids in ratios that support skin barrier function. Quality matters more than quantity - a well-formulated product with the right combination of lipids will be more effective than multiple products used haphazardly.

For compromised barriers, consider starting with simple, proven ingredients like squalane or jojoba oil. These are less likely to cause reactions and can help your skin begin its recovery process. As your barrier strengthens, you can explore other options based on your skin's needs and responses.

Product Recommendations

The Ordinary Squalane Oil - pure and stable formulation, excellent barrier repair, suitable for all skin types

La Roche Posay Cicaplast Baume - contains beneficial lipids, suitable for barrier repair in sensitive skins

CeraVe Facial Moisturising Lotion -contains ceramides and fatty acids and my regular staple

AtoaNY Tallow Balm - I make my own honey and tallow balm, this one is affordable with same ingredients - look for organic grass fed tallow in ingredients

Conclusion

Understanding lipids in skincare goes beyond simply choosing the right oils. It's about supporting your skin's natural functions and maintaining a healthy barrier. Whether you're dealing with dryness, sensitivity, or even oiliness, the right lipid balance can transform your skin health. Remember that skin healing takes time - give your chosen products at least a month to show results, and pay attention to how your skin responds. The goal isn't to layer multiple products, but to find the right combination that works for your specific needs.

Peptides in Skincare: A Journey Through Active Ingredients

 

Photo: Linda Cooper

 

As a beauty professional, I've always been drawn to exploring cutting-edge skincare ingredients. Over the years, I've tested countless actives, formulating skincare for my personal use in my quest to understand what really works. Among all these experiments, peptides have consistently stood out.

My journey with peptides began in the mid-2000s when I started creating my own skincare formulations at home. The decision to formulate my own products came from a combination of necessity and curiosity. With sensitive, breakout-prone skin, I wanted complete control over the ingredients I was using. Plus, I found myself frustrated by expensive brands charging premium prices for effective ingredients that could be accessed more affordably.

While many trendy ingredients have come and gone, peptides - particularly Matrixyl and copper peptides - have earned their permanent place in my personal skincare routine. There's something compelling about these small but mighty protein fragments that keeps me coming back to them.

 

Understanding Your Skin's Needs

Our skin naturally contains proteins like collagen and elastin that keep it firm, elastic, and healthy. These proteins, made up of amino acid chains, maintain skin structure and function. As we age, our natural collagen and elastin production decreases, and environmental factors like UV exposure and pollution accelerate the breakdown of these essential proteins. This is where peptides come in - they offer a way to support our skin's natural protein-building processes.

 

What Are Peptides and Why Do They Matter?

While applying complete proteins like collagen topically isn't effective (they're too large to penetrate), peptides offer a clever alternative. These smaller chains of amino acids can interact with skin meaningfully, working as:

•     Signaling molecules

•     Building blocks for skin repair

•     Support for natural skin processes

What to Realistically Expect:

•     Gradual improvements over 8-12 weeks

•     Subtle firming and smoothing effects

•     Support for overall skin health

•     Better results with consistent use

What Not to Expect:

•     Immediate dramatic results

•     Complete reversal of deep wrinkles

•     Botox-like freezing of muscles

•     Instant lifting effects

 

Different Types of Peptides and Their Functions:

• Signal Peptides - Think of these as tiny messengers communicating with your skin cells. Matrixyl (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4) is a perfect example - it's like a wake-up call for collagen-producing cells.

• Carrier Peptides - These work as delivery systems, transporting vital elements like copper to where they're needed. Copper peptides (GHK-Cu) excel at wound healing and antioxidant support.

• Neurotransmitter Peptides - These affect muscle contraction signals. Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-3) is the most famous, offering subtle smoothing of expression lines.

• Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides - These act as protective guards for existing collagen, managing breakdown processes.

 

Using Peptides Effectively

Getting the most out of your peptide products isn't just about choosing the right formulation - it's also about how and when you use them. Peptides are relatively stable and gentle, making them versatile in your skincare routine. However, proper layering can enhance their effectiveness. The key is to apply peptide products to clean, slightly damp skin, allowing them to penetrate before adding other products.

For your morning routine, start with a gentle cleanse followed by your peptide serum while your skin is still slightly damp. This helps with absorption and maximises benefits. Give it about 30-60 seconds to settle before following with your moisturiser. If you use SPF, you can use it on top of the moisturiser.

Evening routines offer more flexibility for incorporating other active ingredients. If you're wearing makeup or SPF, start with a double cleanse. Apply your peptide serum to damp skin, just as you would in the morning. When using other active ingredients, timing and order matter. Keep copper peptides separate from vitamin C, use acids on alternate nights, and if you're including retinol in your routine, apply it after your peptide products have absorbed. Complete your evening routine with a nourishing moisturiser.
Remember, consistency is key with peptides. Following a regular routine allows these ingredients to work optimally, supporting your skin's natural processes over time. While peptides are generally compatible with most skincare ingredients, giving them proper absorption time helps ensure they can interact effectively with your skin.

 

Understanding Peptide Products and Formulations 

When shopping for peptide products, there's something important to know about these ingredients. Many of the most effective peptide complexes are actually trademarked by specific manufacturers - Matrixyl belongs to Sederma, Argireline to Lubrizol, and SYN-AKE to DSM. This means skincare brands must source these ingredients directly from these manufacturers, which naturally affects both formulation costs and final product pricing.

When evaluating a peptide product, you'll want to look beyond the marketing claims. A well-formulated product should contain at least 2% active peptide complexes, and you'll typically find these listed somewhere in the middle of the ingredient list - not right at the top (where your bulk ingredients like water and glycerin belong) and not buried at the bottom (where they'd be too dilute to be effective). The packaging matters too; look for airless pumps or similar protective packaging that will keep these delicate ingredients stable. Finally, consider the supporting cast of ingredients that help these peptides work effectively.

Peptide Serums Worth Considering:

Medik8 Liquid Peptides

    Contains multiple peptide complexes including Matrixyl
    Well-thought-out formulation with supporting ingredients
    Airless pump packaging protects stability
    Professional brand with research backing


Face Theory PolyPep Collagen Boosting Serum

    Combines copper peptides with other peptide complexes
    Good supporting ingredients for barrier function
    Transparent about concentrations
    Well-priced for the formulation quality


Timeless Matrixyl Synthe 6 

    Focused, straightforward formulation
    Good concentration of Matrixyl
    No unnecessary fillers
    Reasonable price point for active content

 

Conclusion:

Peptides represent some of the most interesting developments in skincare science, offering subtle but meaningful improvements when used correctly. Their ability to communicate with our skin cells and support natural processes makes them valuable additions to a thoughtful skincare routine.

Success with peptides comes from choosing well-formulated products and using them consistently, not from higher concentrations or multiple products. Think of them as long-term supporters of skin health rather than overnight transformers. Give your chosen peptide products time to work, support them with good skincare basics, and watch for gradual improvements over several weeks.

At-Home Facials Revisited: A Professional's Perspective on Modern Tools and Techniques

 

Photo: Kim Lang

The landscape of at-home skincare has transformed dramatically over the past decade. What was once limited to basic cleansing and masking has evolved into a sophisticated array of profes
sional grade devices and treatments. As someone with 25 years of experience in the beauty industry, I've witnessed this evolution first-hand and tested numerous innovations along the way.

While these advancements have made professional-level treatments more accessible, they've also created a maze of options that can be overwhelming - and potentially risky if not used correctly. This updated guide reflects both my professional expertise and personal experience with various tools and techniques, focusing on what actually works and, more importantly, how to use these tools safely and effectively.

Before we dive into specific treatments, remember that the goal of any facial treatment is to enhance your skin's natural functions, not to damage or overwhelm it. Success lies not in how many devices you use, but in understanding how to use them properly and creating a consistent, mindful routine.

 

After 25 years in the industry and testing countless devices, I've narrowed down the most effective at-home treatments to three key approaches that consistently deliver results.

 

FACIAL MASSAGE

• Most accessible and cost-effective
• Immediate visible results 
• Zero recovery time 
• Can be done daily 
• Supports natural processes  
  

 

How it works:

Facial massage immediately improves skin tone and condition by supporting your body's natural systems. Blood circulation delivers nutrients to skin cells, while the lymphatic system removes waste products.

Best Practice:
I prefer using a small Melt ball (designed for fascia therapy) to target lymph nodes around the jaw, neck, and temples, with special attention to the eye area where sinus congestion and fluid retention often occur. The key is gentle movement, always working downward toward lymph nodes and extending from face to neck toward the armpits for proper drainage. Also try Jade roller and Gua Sha massage set

RED LIGHT THERAPY

• Gentle yet effective 
• Science-backed results 
• Consistent long-term benefits 
• Can be combined with other treatments 

 

How It Works:

Operating at specific wavelengths (typically 630-670nm for red light and 830-850nm for near-infrared), these devices penetrate different depths of skin tissue to stimulate cellular repair and collagen production.

Benefits:

•  Improved skin tone and texture
•  Enhanced healing and repair
•  Reduced inflammation
•  Subtle but progressive collagen stimulation

Best Practice:

 Consistency is key - aim for 10-20 minute sessions with proper eye protection. Choose a comfortable, flexible mask over rigid options - if it's uncomfortable, you won't use it regularly. The most expensive option isn't necessarily the best; focus on appropriate wavelengths for your needs.

A Critical Note on Mask Design:

From personal experience, rigid LED masks can present significant comfort issues. The standard one-size-fits-all approach often fails, particularly around the nose and lip area where space can be restrictively small. This discomfort isn't just annoying - it can make 10-20 minute treatments feel unbearable and ultimately leads to the device being abandoned. When choosing a mask, look for:
• Flexible material that adapts to your facial contours
• Adequate space around nose and mouth for comfortable breathing
• Lightweight design for extended wear
• Adjustable straps or hands-free wear options
• Sufficient space between the mask and your features

Remember: The most effective device is the one you'll actually use consistently. An expensive rigid mask that sits in your drawer due to discomfort is ultimately a waste of money

Recommended: Lovsheme LED mask comes with eye protection and has a flexible design
 

 

MICRONEEDLING

• Significant results when done properly 
• Best for periodic intensive treatment 
• Requires strict hygiene protocols 
• Most intensive of the three 

 

How It Works:

This treatment creates controlled micro-injuries in the upper epidermis, enhancing product penetration and triggering natural repair responses. The dual effect helps active ingredients penetrate more effectively while stimulating skin renewal.

Important Considerations:

• Thorough cleaning and disinfection are non-negotiable
• Choose alcohol-free serums with proven actives like copper peptides and niacinamide
• Skip this treatment if strict hygiene feels overwhelming  
• Avoid hyaluronic acid serums containing alcohol or astringents

Use a good sanitiser Isopropyl Alcohol Medical Grade

Recommended products  LaRoche Posay Toleriane Hydrating Serum The Ordinary Buffet Derma roller 

 

 

EMS/RF Devices

 

Radiofrequency (RF) and Electrical Muscle Stimulation (EMS) devices have become increasingly popular for at-home use, but they require careful consideration. These devices work by delivering either thermal energy (RF) or electrical impulses (EMS) to the skin and underlying tissues.

Important Consideration: While RF devices can effectively tighten and tone the skin, they can also reduce facial fat over time. This might be desirable for some, but if you're already concerned about facial volume loss or have a naturally slim face, you should be cautious with RF treatments, particularly around the mid-face area.

What to know before using these devices:

• Start with the lowest setting and gradually increase
• Avoid using over the bony areas of the face or where the skin is thin
• Keep the device moving constantly to prevent overheating  
• Pay attention on how the skin responds
• Consider your facial structure and volume before committing to regular RF treatments
• Make sure you use a hyaluronic gel such as The Ordinary Hyaluronic Serum 

 Results can include 

• Temporary skin tightening
• Improved product absorption
• Enhanced circulation
• Subtle contouring effects (which, again, may include some fat reduction)

 Recommended:

  Foreo Bear Mini Targeted Microcurrent Face Lift Device

 

Why These Three?
These treatments consistently deliver results while being relatively safe when done properly. While many other devices exist (oxygen treatments, etc.), these three offer the best balance of results, safety, and practicality for home use.

While the beauty industry continues to launch new innovations, these three tried-and-tested treatments remain my go-to recommendations for effective at-home facial care. Remember, consistency with gentle treatments often yields better results than aggressive, sporadic approaches. Start with one method that appeals to you most, perfect your technique, and gradually incorporate others as desired. The key to success lies not in accumulating devices, but in understanding and regularly practicing treatments that work for your skin's needs.

 

 

Worst Makeup Trends I’m Done With: Highlighter on the Nose

image: Andrew Kimber

 

 

I’ve spent 25 years in makeup, working with pros at Chanel and L’Oreal, and five years out hasn’t dulled my disdain for stupid trends. TikTok and Instagram girls, what’s with the highlighter on the nose tip? This nonsense should’ve died years ago, but it’s still here, and it looks bloody awful. Let me break it down.

 

Contour and highlight aren’t random. Contour is an implied shadow—matte, cool-toned, greyish-brown, not bronzer. Stand by a window, check your mirror: that’s the shadow we recreate. It pulls back areas—cheekbones, chin, forehead, nose. I’ve faked a six-pack for shoots, but that’s another story. 

 

Cheek contour doesn’t stop mid-cheek—that’s blush territory, don’t mess it up. Done right, it slims and defines. I’d use something pro-grade like Make Up For Ever Ultra HD Stick Foundation matte, blends like a dream.

 

Highlight brings things forward. Top of cheekbones, bridge of the nose—just the bony bit, not the ball—cupid’s bow, brow bone. That’s it. Noses are already forward; they don’t need more attention. Slapping highlighter on the tip doesn’t look cute—it looks like you’ve been sweating buckets. I worked with professional models; they’d never pull this crap. Backstage, we kept glow subtle, enhancing features, not turning them into a disco ball. A pro pick like Dior Forever Couture Luminizer Intense Highlighting Powder give a soft radiance, not a greasy shine.

This trend needs to die, never to be seen again. Makeup should enhance, not make you look ridiculous.

 

 

What’s the worst makeup look you’ve tried—drop it in the comments.

Eyebrow Looks I’ve Outlasted: From Thin to Bushy and Back

 

Georgina at Hermes backstage, makeup and photo by me

 

 

 

 

Seeing that I have walked away from my makeup career almost five years ago, I can now reflect on some trends over the twenty-five years in the industry.

 

Eyebrows “frame the face” and set the tone of the whole look. Coming from the overplucked 90s eyebrows that instantly aged every wearer – to crazy caterpillar type of brows of the late 2010s and squared off tattooed brows, you can say I’ve seen and dealt with all of the types.

What all of these trends had in common were that none of them were natural and “timeless”.

 

I’ll start with overplucked eyebrows. I’ve heard many stories that they never grow back after too much plucking – I call bullshit. If you overpluck them for 20 years then yes, you may have weakened the hair follicle root, but seeing how much money we spend on waxing and epilation, the stuff grows. From places you thought no hair should grow. Your natural eyebrow shape might not have been the best, but there are tricks to deal with those, I’ll get to some products suggestions later. But I do find that people get “stuck” on the shape they think it works best and they’re unwilling to budge.

 

Fat eyebrows – you know the look. Cara Delavigne kind of started the trend and eventually it got out of control. I definitely prefer more natural eyebrows, but they should be still groomed. But never pluck them from the top, the eyebrows should be shaped so they lift your eye – eyebrows can do that, you don’t have to do the “eyebrow lift” so you look like everyone on Instagram.

 

Tattooed eyebrows –I almost considered this at one point, I am so glad I never did them.

Now I’ll tell you why I don’t recommend them.

Tattooed eyebrows are considered semi-permanent makeup with results highly dependent on the skill of the artist and the ability of the said artist to correctly mix the right pigments for your skin tone and give you the shape that suits your face. As the pigment deposits are not as deep as the traditional tattoo, such pigment will fade and would need topping up. And when those pigments fade, they eyebrows will be reddish or greenish (I have seen plenty on clients).

Another point is the shape – literally nobody has a squared off natural eyebrow – that shape is achieved when you pluck the monobrow and fill it in with makeup it then looks squared off, but I repeat, nobody has natural eyebrows like that so I am unsure why the trend for tattoos for that shape.

Most of the time it’s too dark, makes women too severe looking, especially once you hit 40s.

 

What I do recommend is grooming eyebrows into the right shape. For that I like a toothbrush type eyebrow brush – Bamboo toothbrush with boar bristles  is the type I like to use. You brush the eyebrows upwards at the eyebrow bone – it lifts the eye corners and then you fill in the bits and bobs and form the shape.

I love Kevyn Aucoin eyebrow pencils – they’re bit on the pricy side but the colours are the best and they’re great at filing in the gaps in natural eyebrows. For more budget options Maybelline Express Brow Ultra Slim Defining Natural Fuller Looking Brows Eyebrow Pencil is decent. Eyebrow pencils are mix of wax and pigments, so mass market brands generally use less expensive and more limited pigment selections, so bear that in mind.

If you need to visually “fatten” the eyebrows, then using a highly pigmented eyeshadow with a smaller boar brush would be your best option. Revolution does a decent eyeshadow palette with colours that can be used for eyebrows.

 

To deposit colour on eyebrows use a natural boar hair angled brush such as Bobbi Brown 

 

I dislike synthetic brushes for eyebrows, the bristle must be firm enough in order to pick up more pigment and synthetics just don’t behave the same.

 

And as a last thing, you can set the eyebrows in shape if you spray some L’Oreal Elnett on the boar brush and brush the eyebrows into shape. Elnett doesn’t flake and has a firm hold so your eyebrows will be fixed until you wash your face.

 

What’s the worst eyebrow look you’ve tried? 

 

 

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